Comments for Bolivian Mountain Guides http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com Discover the Bolivian Mountains with us! Tue, 31 Jan 2012 23:03:06 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Comment on Welcome! by Serge Lochi http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-171 Serge Lochi Tue, 31 Jan 2012 23:03:06 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-171 Sajama beau volcan situé a 2 pas de la frontière chilienne entouré par le Parinacota et le Pomarape, belle ascension bien que difficile a cause des 500 mètres de pénitents bien creusés à cette époque de l'année mais Eduardo a su m'encourager pour vaincre la difficulté et je dois dire que je lui en suis reconnaissant.votre condition physique pour gravir un tel sommet doit etre optimal vraiment une belle expérience avant d'attaquer d'autres sommets plus techniques.au faite le Sajama ressemble étrangement a l'Aconcagua... SERGE Sajama beau volcan situé a 2 pas de la frontière chilienne entouré par le Parinacota et le
Pomarape, belle ascension bien que difficile a cause des 500 mètres de pénitents bien
creusés à cette époque de l’année mais Eduardo a su m’encourager pour vaincre la difficulté
et je dois dire que je lui en suis reconnaissant.votre condition physique pour gravir un
tel sommet doit etre optimal vraiment une belle expérience avant d’attaquer d’autres
sommets plus techniques.au faite le Sajama ressemble étrangement a l’Aconcagua…

SERGE

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Tim Billo http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-144 Tim Billo Fri, 23 Dec 2011 11:45:21 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-144 My alarm went off at 2:30 AM, and shivering in my tent, I forced myself to eat and drink as much as I could-3 granola bars and several cups of warm tea were all I could manage. A hot water bottle went into the inner pouch of my jacket (to prevent freezing), and it was time to move. Leaving at 3:15 AM, the grating of crampons on rock, quickly turned to the quiet crunch of Andean snow, with pristine snowflakes from the previous day's flurries sparkling under the headlamp. Climbing at altitude is a slow and rhythmic process. Throw into that the 10-12 degree F temps, and a stiff 20-30 mph wind, and you don't want to stop for fear of getting too cold. I forced myself to drink water when I could, but the main focus was only on steady upward progress into the starry night. And with each 1000m gain in altitude, the progress became that much more difficult. The route wound around crevasses, worked up through penitentes, jogged right, and then left, as we hit the brunt of the upper level winds. The route crossed a thin crevasse bridge and then steepened to 45 degrees. Upwards we went, swinging our ice axes and kicking steps steadily into the night, perfect conditions and perfect purchase for the crampons and ax. Finally the route leveled out, crossed a bergschrund and climbed steeply again to the summit ridge, just as the upper mountain was being washed in pink light. We put our heads down and trudged along the summit ridge into the rising sun, topping out four hours after leaving the high camp, in time to see the mountain cast a long shadow out across the Altiplano. At this elevation it felt like we were flying over the landscape, the earth curving away to the north to Titicaca, to the west to the famous Sajama mountain and the Bolivia's volcanic range behind them, and a sea of clouds to the east over the Amazon. Two minutes was about all we could stand of the cold and wind on the summit before heading back down. As the sun warmed us on the way down, we could finally slow down and enjoy some of the sun's warmth, admire the landscape, massive fluted faces, giant crevasses and icefalls, and the brown of the Altiplano in the distance. I thank my guide, Eduardo Mamani, for skillfully and safely leading the way to the top of this beautiful and complex mountain, a mountain he knows intimately through hundreds of ascents over the last 25 years. Every part of the climb, including the drive out from La Paz, and the approach hike, on which two rare Andean condors soared overhead, were spectacular. Eduardo encouraged frequent stopping and photography to appreciate the sights along the way. Eduardo is a strong climber and professional guide, and his friendly personality and sense of humor will ensure you have an unforgettable experience in Bolivia. My alarm went off at 2:30 AM, and shivering in my tent, I forced myself to eat and drink as much as I could-3 granola bars and several cups of warm tea were all I could manage. A hot water bottle went into the inner pouch of my jacket (to prevent freezing), and it was time to move. Leaving at 3:15 AM, the grating of crampons on rock, quickly turned to the quiet
crunch of Andean snow, with pristine snowflakes from the previous day’s flurries sparkling under the headlamp. Climbing at altitude is a slow and rhythmic process. Throw into that the 10-12 degree F temps, and a stiff 20-30 mph wind, and you don’t want to stop for fear of getting too cold. I forced myself to drink water when I could, but the main focus was only on
steady upward progress into the starry night. And with each 1000m gain in altitude, the progress became that much more difficult. The route wound around crevasses, worked up through penitentes, jogged right, and then left, as we hit the brunt of the upper level winds. The route crossed a thin crevasse bridge and then steepened to 45 degrees. Upwards we went,
swinging our ice axes and kicking steps steadily into the night, perfect conditions and perfect purchase for the crampons and ax. Finally the route leveled out, crossed a bergschrund and climbed steeply again to the summit ridge, just as the upper mountain was being washed in pink light. We put our heads down and trudged along the summit ridge into the rising sun,
topping out four hours after leaving the high camp, in time to see the mountain cast a long shadow out across the Altiplano. At this elevation it felt like we were flying over the landscape, the earth curving away to the north to Titicaca, to the west to the famous Sajama mountain and the Bolivia’s volcanic range behind them, and a sea of clouds to the east over the Amazon. Two minutes was about all we could stand of the cold and wind on the summit before heading back down. As the sun warmed us on the way down, we could finally slow down and enjoy some of the sun’s warmth, admire the landscape, massive fluted faces, giant crevasses and icefalls, and the brown of the Altiplano in the distance. I thank my guide, Eduardo Mamani, for skillfully and safely leading the way to the top of this beautiful and complex mountain, a mountain he knows intimately through hundreds of ascents over the last 25 years. Every part of the climb, including the drive out from La Paz, and the approach hike, on which two
rare Andean condors soared overhead, were spectacular. Eduardo encouraged frequent stopping and photography to appreciate the sights along the way. Eduardo is a strong climber and professional guide, and his friendly personality and sense of humor will ensure you have an unforgettable experience in Bolivia.

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Daan Kranenburg http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-127 Daan Kranenburg Mon, 26 Sep 2011 12:01:00 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-127 Eduardo led our climbs to two 5000+ and one 6000+ meter high mountain. Eduardo is a very experienced IFMGA guide with a lot of climbs in the Andes under his belt, which was both reassuring and gave us the opportunity to go places few people had gone before. Eduardo’s knowledge of the mountains, focus on safety and his good humored character made him the perfect guide for our climbs. We recommend him wholeheartedly. Eduardo, thank you! Eduardo led our climbs to two 5000+ and one 6000+ meter high mountain. Eduardo is a very experienced IFMGA guide with a lot of climbs in the Andes under his belt, which was both reassuring and gave us the opportunity to go places few people had gone before. Eduardo’s knowledge of the mountains, focus on safety and his good humored character made him the perfect guide for our climbs. We recommend him wholeheartedly. Eduardo, thank you!

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Wolfgang Friedrich http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-118 Wolfgang Friedrich Mon, 05 Sep 2011 16:15:33 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-118 Chakaltaya, Payachatas and Condoriri For my trip to the Bolivian Andes in August 2011 I chose “Bolivian Mountain Guides” to organize this expedition and to guide and accompany me – and it turned out to be an excellent choice. In preparation for this trip Eduardo Mamani Quispe and I had exchanged a whole series of emails to work out in detail a tailor-made program for this expedition and already in this phase Eduardo´s friendliness, flexibility and customer orientation became obvious. After arrival in La Paz I spent some days in the Cabana Chakaltaya to ensure a good acclimatization phase. During these days I climbed the nearby Chakaltaya Peaks. After two days in La Paz we started to Parinacota and Pomerape. My guide was Jose Mamani Quispe, the younger brother of Eduardo. In the High Camp at 5.150 m unfortunately I got some health problems which made us change our plans regarding the twin volcanoes. Instead we decided to move to the Condoriri Group. At the Lago Condoriri we established our Base Camp at an altitude of 4.650 m. From there we climbed – with a High Camp – Pico Austria (5.358 m) and in another two-day-trip Pico Tarija and Pico Diente (5.358 m). In both cases we had beautiful weather and an amazing view to the other mountains of the Condoriri range, to the Huyana Potosi and a lot of other peaks of the Bolivian Andes. After more than 50 years of mountaineering in many parts of the world I can whole-heartedly recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides as an excellent organization for mountain expeditions in the Bolivian Andes. It was a great pleasure for me to climb with Eduardo and Jose. The expedition was very well prepared in every detail. In contrast to many other expeditions with other operators each piece of the equipment was in very good shape. Eduardo and Jose as well as all other staff were very friendly and helpful. It was no problem whatsoever to change plans after my health-problems. I would like to thank Eduardo and Jose very much for the nice and successful days we spent together. If I return to Bolivia in the future, I will without any doubt chose again Bolivian Mountain Guides as tour operator for my expeditions. Chakaltaya, Payachatas and Condoriri

For my trip to the Bolivian Andes in August 2011 I chose “Bolivian Mountain Guides” to organize this expedition and to guide and accompany me – and it turned out to be an excellent choice. In preparation for this trip Eduardo Mamani Quispe and I had exchanged a whole series of emails to work out in detail a tailor-made program for this expedition and already in this phase Eduardo´s friendliness, flexibility and customer orientation became obvious.

After arrival in La Paz I spent some days in the Cabana Chakaltaya to ensure a good acclimatization phase. During these days I climbed the nearby Chakaltaya Peaks.

After two days in La Paz we started to Parinacota and Pomerape. My guide was Jose Mamani Quispe, the younger brother of Eduardo. In the High Camp at 5.150 m unfortunately I got some health problems which made us change our plans regarding the twin volcanoes. Instead we decided to move to the Condoriri Group.

At the Lago Condoriri we established our Base Camp at an altitude of 4.650 m. From there we climbed – with a High Camp – Pico Austria (5.358 m) and in another two-day-trip Pico Tarija and Pico Diente (5.358 m). In both cases we had beautiful weather and an amazing view to the other mountains of the Condoriri range, to the Huyana Potosi and a lot of other peaks of the Bolivian Andes.

After more than 50 years of mountaineering in many parts of the world I can whole-heartedly recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides as an excellent organization for mountain expeditions in the Bolivian Andes. It was a great pleasure for me to climb with Eduardo and Jose. The expedition was very well prepared in every detail. In contrast to many other expeditions with other operators each piece of the equipment was in very good shape. Eduardo and Jose as well as all other staff were very friendly and helpful. It was no problem whatsoever to change plans after my health-problems.

I would like to thank Eduardo and Jose very much for the nice and successful days we spent together. If I return to Bolivia in the future, I will without any doubt chose again Bolivian Mountain Guides as tour operator for my expeditions.

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Rafael Luz Araujo http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-117 Rafael Luz Araujo Wed, 31 Aug 2011 12:32:08 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-117 Procurei no web site dos guias de montanha- Bolivia um guia com experiencia em Andinismo, encontrei Eduardo e este me ensinou importantes tecnicas de escalada em gelo e dicas para conseguir chegar ao topo de Huayna Potosi. Recomendo Eduardo e sua equipe quando for a Bolivia procurar aventura em alta montanha. rafaelluzaraujo@gmail.com Procurei no web site dos guias de montanha- Bolivia um guia com experiencia em Andinismo, encontrei Eduardo e este me ensinou importantes tecnicas de escalada em gelo e dicas para conseguir chegar ao topo de Huayna Potosi. Recomendo Eduardo e sua equipe quando for a Bolivia procurar aventura em alta montanha.

rafaelluzaraujo@gmail.com

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Bryan Long http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-109 Bryan Long Sun, 24 Jul 2011 21:47:50 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-109 <a href="" title="" rel="nofollow"> "La vida de la montaña es una vida dura!" -Eduardo Mamani Quispe <abbr title=""> Eduardo was right, the life of a mountaineer is difficult. But I can say from experience that Eduardo and his team make living in the mountains far more enjoyable. I met Eduardo while climbing Pequeno Alpamayo with another guide service. Unfortunately our guide for Alpamayo did not provide us with sufficient food. When Eduardo found out, he graciously brought us a bunch of papaya, honey, bread, and tuna and asked for nothing in return. It was one of the most generous acts of kindness I had seen. After joking around with him for a couple hours, I knew we would soon climb a peak together. I had been planning on climbing Sajama and began discussing it with Eduardo. He gave us considerably more information about the peak than anyone else I had talked to (including the other guide service we had paid for). It was an easy decision to climb Sajama with him. Eduardo and his team did an incredible job assessing my skill level and really made the climb fun! After a couple days together, the climb was more like a trip amongst friends than a paid expedition. I highly recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides to anyone looking to climb big peaks in Boivia. Here is my complete trip report abut our climbing in Bolivia for further information: http://www.summitpost.org/an-expedition-in-the-bolivian-andes/547342 También, tengo que mandar saludos a Juanito (el hijo de Eduardo) para su gran ascenso en Bolivia! Si sigas escalando vas a tener todo las experiencias incredibles de las montañas! Suerte Bryan “La vida de la montaña es una vida dura!” -Eduardo Mamani Quispe

Eduardo was right, the life of a mountaineer is difficult. But I can say from experience that Eduardo and his team make living in the mountains far more enjoyable. I met Eduardo while climbing Pequeno Alpamayo with another guide service. Unfortunately our guide for Alpamayo did not provide us with sufficient food. When Eduardo found out, he graciously brought us a bunch of papaya, honey, bread, and tuna and asked for nothing in return. It was one of the most generous acts of kindness I had seen. After joking around with him for a couple hours, I knew we would soon climb a peak together.

I had been planning on climbing Sajama and began discussing it with Eduardo. He gave us considerably more information about the peak than anyone else I had talked to (including the other guide service we had paid for). It was an easy decision to climb Sajama with him. Eduardo and his team did an incredible job assessing my skill level and really made the climb fun! After a couple days together, the climb was more like a trip amongst friends than a paid expedition.

I highly recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides to anyone looking to climb big peaks in Boivia.

Here is my complete trip report abut our climbing in Bolivia for further information:
http://www.summitpost.org/an-expedition-in-the-bolivian-andes/547342

También, tengo que mandar saludos a Juanito (el hijo de Eduardo) para su gran ascenso en Bolivia! Si sigas escalando vas a tener todo las experiencias incredibles de las montañas! Suerte

Bryan

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Ahsan Iman http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-107 Ahsan Iman Tue, 21 Jun 2011 07:24:06 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-107 Bolivian Mountain Guides provided the best experience I have had with a mountain guiding company. They were reliable, competent, flexible and professional. From the airport pickup to end of the trip every detail was meticulously tended to. When I was told I would be picked up at nine someone was there and if the plans were changed I was always kept in the loop. Eduardo was a very personable guide. During the climb he assessed my skill level and was very flexible with rest of the trip itinerary. I was recommended but not forced with any itinerary. The food served during the trip was superb. We were always taken care of. I would recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides to any adventurer. I always felt safe and instruction received during glacier training was tantamount to my confidence on the mountain. I have nothing but high praise for this outfit. They take excellent care of their clients. Bolivian Mountain Guides provided the best experience I have had with a mountain guiding company. They were reliable, competent, flexible and professional. From the airport pickup to end of the trip every detail was meticulously tended to. When I was told I would be picked up at nine someone was there and if the plans were changed I was always kept in the loop. Eduardo was a very personable guide. During the climb he assessed my skill level and was very flexible with rest of the trip itinerary. I was recommended but not forced with any itinerary. The food served during the trip was superb. We were always taken care of. I would recommend Bolivian Mountain Guides to any adventurer. I always felt safe and instruction received during glacier training was tantamount to my confidence on the mountain. I have nothing but high praise for this outfit. They take excellent care of their clients.

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Marcin http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-106 Marcin Thu, 09 Jun 2011 10:06:30 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-106 In early May 2011 we have summitted Pequenyo Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi with Eduardo. Before the climb we have been trekking with Jose for two days in the Condoriri area to acclimatise and we also met Pedro. The trek had some spectacular scenery and our tents and food were ready on arrival. Eduardo has then given us some basic ice walking and climbing training on the glacier, as we have never done it before, and we finally were ready to attempt the summits. While climbing the Pequenyo Alpamayo we were extremely impressed by Eduardo's guiding and help. He secured our ascent and descent as well as the rock climbing part. He told us where to rest on the steepest part and helped us through the bad weather on the way out. Huayna Potosi, while a not technical climb, is a long and physically demanding uphill. Again, Eduardo was carefully monitoring us throughout and giving advice and assistance which really helped us to summit. Our experiences with Eduardo, Jose and Pedro (Mamani brothers) and their crew (cooks, porters etc) was outstanding. The trek and climbs were perfectly organised and the expertise and quality of mountain guiding has exceeded our expectations. Bolivian Mountian Guides have made our experience perfect and we gladly give them our highest recommendations. High summit success rate their customers enjoy is for a good reason. Marcin Szczepanski (mszcze@gmail.com) In early May 2011 we have summitted Pequenyo Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi with Eduardo. Before the climb we have been trekking with Jose for two days in the Condoriri area to acclimatise and we also met Pedro. The trek had some spectacular scenery and our tents and food were ready on arrival. Eduardo has then given us some basic ice walking and climbing training on the glacier, as we have never done it before, and we finally were ready to attempt the summits.
While climbing the Pequenyo Alpamayo we were extremely impressed by Eduardo’s guiding and help. He secured our ascent and descent as well as the rock climbing part. He told us where to rest on the steepest part and helped us through the bad weather on the way out.
Huayna Potosi, while a not technical climb, is a long and physically demanding uphill. Again, Eduardo was carefully monitoring us throughout and giving advice and assistance which really helped us to summit.
Our experiences with Eduardo, Jose and Pedro (Mamani brothers) and their crew (cooks, porters etc) was outstanding. The trek and climbs were perfectly organised and the expertise and quality of mountain guiding has exceeded our expectations. Bolivian Mountian Guides have made our experience perfect and we gladly give them our highest recommendations. High summit success rate their customers enjoy is for a good reason.

Marcin Szczepanski (mszcze@gmail.com)

]]> Comment on Welcome! by Matthew Weiss http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-70 Matthew Weiss Sun, 24 Apr 2011 17:13:23 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-70 I've recently (April, 2011) returned from summiting Huayna Potosí with Eduardo Mamani of Bolivian Mountains and I really couldn't be more pleased with my experience. I've been traveling extensively in South America for more than half of my life; back in the States I'm an avid outdoor enthusiast, but have never done much winter climbing and certainly not at the elevation required in Bolivia. Fear not! Eduardo put me at ease from the beginning. He takes safety very seriously and from the first handshake I was already aware that this was a guide attuned to details - plans, preparations, equipment, technique etc. In fact when we first met (I also explored the former Chacaltaya ski resort with Eduardo a week prior to summiting Huayna) I couldn't help but notice that Eduardo was subtly checking out my boots, making sure I had the appropriate gear. In our stroll up Chacaltaya, at 17,800ft, Eduardo was also keen to note my footing and comfort hiking - something that would clearly influence our more rigorous hike the following week. Eduardo has to be one of the most punctual men I've met in South America and his attention to details exceeded that of rival companies who hiked the same trails in my opinion. Eduardo and the Mamani brothers essentially pioneered the climbing scene in Bolivia over the past 20-30 years, establishing the major hiking routes and campsites. On the trail, guides from other companies are sure to say hello to "Don Eduardo" and when there is a question about ice conditions or a teaching point to be made, the attention always turns to Don Eduardo. His extensive experience was evidenced by this peer respect. His sensibility evidenced by his calm demeanor which paced us slow and steady, allowing us to leave high camp last and yet be the first group to arrive to the summit of Huayna, whilst other guides hauled their clients like mules requiring frequent resting breaks. Finally, hiking with Eduardo will be more than a lifetime of memories of beautiful mountains and new summits. Eduardo has a lifetime's worth of exciting mountaineering stories to share and his friendship is something that will lure me back to the mountains of Bolivia sooner rather than later. I'd be thrilled to talk to anyone interested about climbing with the Mamani's in Bolivia. I may be reached at matt.c.weiss@gmail.com. I’ve recently (April, 2011) returned from summiting Huayna Potosí with Eduardo Mamani of Bolivian Mountains and I really couldn’t be more pleased with my experience. I’ve been traveling extensively in South America for more than half of my life; back in the States I’m an avid outdoor enthusiast, but have never done much winter climbing and certainly not at the elevation required in Bolivia. Fear not! Eduardo put me at ease from the beginning. He takes safety very seriously and from the first handshake I was already aware that this was a guide attuned to details – plans, preparations, equipment, technique etc. In fact when we first met (I also explored the former Chacaltaya ski resort with Eduardo a week prior to summiting Huayna) I couldn’t help but notice that Eduardo was subtly checking out my boots, making sure I had the appropriate gear. In our stroll up Chacaltaya, at 17,800ft, Eduardo was also keen to note my footing and comfort hiking – something that would clearly influence our more rigorous hike the following week. Eduardo has to be one of the most punctual men I’ve met in South America and his attention to details exceeded that of rival companies who hiked the same trails in my opinion. Eduardo and the Mamani brothers essentially pioneered the climbing scene in Bolivia over the past 20-30 years, establishing the major hiking routes and campsites. On the trail, guides from other companies are sure to say hello to “Don Eduardo” and when there is a question about ice conditions or a teaching point to be made, the attention always turns to Don Eduardo. His extensive experience was evidenced by this peer respect. His sensibility evidenced by his calm demeanor which paced us slow and steady, allowing us to leave high camp last and yet be the first group to arrive to the summit of Huayna, whilst other guides hauled their clients like mules requiring frequent resting breaks. Finally, hiking with Eduardo will be more than a lifetime of memories of beautiful mountains and new summits. Eduardo has a lifetime’s worth of exciting mountaineering stories to share and his friendship is something that will lure me back to the mountains of Bolivia sooner rather than later. I’d be thrilled to talk to anyone interested about climbing with the Mamani’s in Bolivia.
I may be reached at matt.c.weiss@gmail.com.

]]> Comment on Welcome! by karin http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69&cpage=1#comment-65 karin Mon, 18 Apr 2011 16:13:50 +0000 http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/?p=69#comment-65 Queria decirte a Eduardo que de verdad eres tan sencillo y tan grande al mismo tiempo..gracias por cuidar a Matt en Huayna Potosi! este último fin de semana....lo hiciste tan feliz y yo pude tratar de estar tranquila porque estaba contigo y tu sabia experiencia...si alguien me deslumbro en Bolvia por su sencilles y grandeza fue Ud. Don Eduardo... Grande Eduardo!!!..un abrazo.. karin Bardales (Perù) Queria decirte a Eduardo que de verdad eres tan sencillo y tan grande al mismo tiempo..gracias por cuidar a Matt en Huayna Potosi! este último fin de semana….lo hiciste tan feliz y yo pude tratar de estar tranquila porque estaba contigo y tu sabia experiencia…si alguien me deslumbro en Bolvia por su sencilles y grandeza fue Ud. Don Eduardo…
Grande Eduardo!!!..un abrazo..
karin Bardales (Perù)

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