Our adventures

CHACHACOMANI (6.100 m.)

South Face

One of the mountains which is above 6.000 meters is the Chachacomani, the distance and the requiere for its accent is not much visited.

The normal rote middle of last year the way south, starting from the city of La Paz the pass Amahuaya of which descend to the foot of Lloco llocono valley. At this point one of the problems was to get mules or porters to transport material up the mountain which  is the second camp in Leche Khota.

To reach the high camp move up the moraines to the edge of the glaciar, the next day to attack the mountain in the southern side win their summit from wich it has espectacular mountain landscape that surround them as the Three Marias, Kellhuani, Chearoco, Pata Patani, Jackosiri, Jancko Laya, Jallahuaya, the Titicaca Lake ; the  return is by the same route. In the climb one the problems is to pass bergschrund found at the base of the wall, the resto f the wall has an inclination between 55 to 60 degree continuous

The following days are only for the return to La Paz.

South West Face.

At present the route you did Gregorio Mamani  is the most popular, was increased visit to this mountain climbers, and remove the trauma that existed on  the hostility of local people, they requiere only 4 days, access the area is very fast despite the gap of over 90 kilometers from the city of La Paz.

The approach to base camp it is performed from the town of Alto Cruz Pampa cross penetrating a horizontal valley to finally make a small climb and reach the Base Camp Jakosiri.

The second day to reach the high camp is located on the edge of glacial (5.150 m.), but this day recommended to continue the accent of the technical material using mountain to Advanced Camp is at 5.450 m. and set up Camp on the glaciar.

The tirad day was the Accent avoiding cracks in the place, continuing through the base of Centinela Peak, a name that Gregorio Mamani by how summit this Peak. Later the italian Luca Citarella accompanied by Eduardo Mamani reconfirm the appointment climbing this Peak.

This path to Centinela Peak is direct path Chachacomani Summit. After reaching the summit 6.100 m. East Chachacomani the decrase is performed along the Centinela Peak, continuing to Base Camp. The Accent to this mountain is initiated by the South West, and end the attack from the West.

The fourth day is just returning to the city of La Paz signal are recommended in the ascent on the glaciar to avoid problems when returning to High Camp.

In the area Chearoco and Chachacomani there are several Peak that have not been conquered, at least there is no oficial record, especially on the west side technical dificultéis are varied.

125 posts

About author
Bolivian Mountain Guide UIAGM, ice climbing and trekking. "Thank you for visiting this site, and this blog! Here you'll find news about climbing and trekking in Bolivia, as well as reports from my most recent and future adventures!
Articles

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.